Thursday, April 13, 2017

Decorating with letters and wine corks.

This is a project I completed for our dining room.  I have seen different ideas regarding corks and recently found online where someone took wooden letters and affixed corks to them and hung them on the wall.  I wanted to use metal and since Hobby Lobby opened up in town recently, let's see what we can make.

I found what I wanted, but the hollow parts in the back and when you flip a letter such as an "R", it doesn't work.  Oh well let's pull out the metal cutting discs for the dremel.

I ended up burning through roughly a dozen of the dremel discs to get the letters dismantled so I could get them the correct way for this project.

Now that they were cut, I had to figure out a way to put them back together. Unfortunately, I'm not a metalsmith nor do I own a welder.  Therefore, I ended up buying a tube of Gorilla glue construction adhesive that did indicate it can bind metal to metal 

To make it work, I had to place a bead along one side, let it set, then use clamps to hold other parts in line, make a bead, let it set, then move along until the whole thing was complete.  My beads are ugly, but eventually they will be hidden by the cork.

This is the finished letter prior to painting. 

I painted it with Rustoleum forged beaten  Amber and one can worked both letters.

After placement on the wall, I used the corks we had on hand.  It will take a while to fill both up, but here is where the project currently stands.

As always thank you for looking.


Pallet entryway furniture.

So this isn't miniature related or too verbose because I am typing on a tablet for a while.  I made this for a dear friend of my family as part of a housewarming gift for her getting her own place for the first time.

It started as a pallet I took from leaning up against the neighborhood dumpster.  A repurposed women closet shelf,and some short length 4x4s laying around my dad's barn.

I cut about 1/3 of the height of the pallet off with a circular saw, cut the shelf the width of the pallet, and the 4x4s were cut to the depth of the shelf to support the shelf on the top of the pallet.  I then sanded the pallet down to smooth it out.

All the exposed areas received a few coats of an espresso color stain.  I screwed the shelf into the 4x4s, then ran 4 inch screws through the back of the pallet into the 4x4s.  There's not much of a load bearing on the shelf, but it will hold some decorative items.

 Once stained, I used two cans of glossy spray polyurethane to give it a nice finish.  Lastly, I added some hooks for coats, keys,and what-nots.  Then I hung it on her wall.  I'm quite pleased with the results here.
As always, thank you for browsing my projects.


Thursday, September 24, 2015

Imperial Fist Storm Talon

So far, and sometimes to my detriment, I always glue my models together (mostly) before painting.  I like my models bright and clean, envisioning that they are fresh arrivals to the war.  So, here's my processes:

Pieces and sprues.  Nothing fancy here, clip, file, glue, file, fill in with Liquid Green Stuff or Green Stuff.  The next two photos was my botched process of attempting to magnetize the missile load-out.  Yeah, it didn't work.

So onto less mundane items.  I used P3 White Primer, then for the basecoat I used The Army Painter Daemonic Yellow.

This photo included everything base coated yellow.  Then for any parts I wanted to eventually be black or metallic, I base coated via brush, Scale 75 Petroleum Gray.

For the missiles/rockets in the launchers, I painted them with P3 Menoth White Base, brought it up a bit brighter with P3 Morrow White.  Then I painted the tips of the missiles with RMS Blood Red.  Any part that I ended up painting metallic, I used Citadel Lead Belcher.  I then washed the black and metal areas with Citadel Badab Black.  (Yes, I still have those old school washes.)

To finish up the rocket launchers, I then washed the yellow with Citadel Gryphonne Sepia.  I wanted to do some hard edge highlights.  So on the black, I highlighted with a Kimberly Watercolor Pencil 760Gray, I used the Kimberly Yellow one for the yellow.  Let me get a closer photo, if I can.  

Now, I ended up, messing it up, honestly, at this point.  I wanted to protect the model so I brushed on 'Ard Coat, pretty thick, and I think it looks junky at this point.  Hopefully, I good blast with Krylon matte spray will bring it back to where I'm happy with the result.

I gave the glossy parts a blast with the Krylon Matte Spray.

They look better, but up close, you can still see the "thick globby job" I did with the 'Ard Coat.  Meh, it wasn't going to win any awards in the first place.  I do need to go back through and work on the extreme highlights with the pencils again though.  

I have moved onto the main body of the model with the same formulas with the lauchers and wings:  Spray white primer, I use P3.  Then base coat with The Army Painter Daemonic Yellow spray.  Metallic areas are brush coated with Scale 75 Petroleum Gray.
I need to get you a better, non washed out photo of the base coating, but this one also shows the canopy.  I didn't intend to paint the canopy, but well, my skills aren't awesome enough to paint that marine in the cockpit with the model already glued together.

I didn't do WIP on the cock pit.  I painted the entire interior with Tamiya Clear Yellow.  I've had this paint for years and I do not think it is water based.  Either way I did a couple of layers.  Afterwards, I painted a solid coat of Citadel Runefang Steel.  All of this was painted on the inside of the canopy.  Lastly, I meticulously painted the supports structure of the canopy with Scale 75 Petroleum Gray.  I'm pleased with the results, and instead of fiddling with it to "improve" it, but end up screwing it up.  I'm leaving it alone.

I then went on the main body and meticulously placed Citadel Gryphonne Sepia wash in the cracks.  I'm not exactly going for a weathered/dingy look, and it does have a bit of that dingy look to it in places.

Essentially it is 98% finished.  I'm thinking of placing an Imperial Fist decal somewhere as an identifier and I need to finish up the "lights" on the front of the model.

Lastly, I did buy a Secret Weapon Miniature's base.  Painting on the base started with a black spray primer.  The base coated with Citadel Foundation Adeptus Battlegray with a drybrush of Astronomican Gray.  For the rusty metal bits, I coated them with Reaper Master Series Chestnut Brown and/or RMS Rust Brown.  No real rhyme or reason, just getting some randomness on there.  In some places I stippled Vallejo Model Air Rust.  I gave the the browns a wash in Gryphonne Sepia.  To bring up the grays a little bit more, I did a final dry brush of Citadel Deneb Stone.  Randomly I used Secret Weapon Miniature's Rust Red, Rust Orange, and Rust Brown pigments, finished it up with SWM's pigment fixer.  I liked playing/experimenting with the pigments so on the gray areas I used Slate Gray and Ash Gray, then fixed with the Pigment fixer.  On the green toxic ooze junk, I painted Citadel Necrotite Green, Washed with Citadel Thraka Green and while the wash was still wet, dripped Secret Weapon Miniature Realistic Water onto it.  Here's the photo:

This is my first large model I've ever done.  Overall, I'm pleased.  I would field this on a table.  This is table top quality and I improved on some of my techniques.  As always, though, comments and constructive feedback is welcome.  If anyone is interested, I will sell/trade it eventually.  Just not sure when.  I'm still intrigued with actually building an army, but this thing took a year to build/paint and we have twins on the way now...not sure if I'll even learn how to play.  Onto more projects....  Thank you for looking.

Friday, February 21, 2014

Super Dungeon Explorer: Princess Ruby WIP and Final

Next on the shelf is a SDE Princess Ruby.  Packaging:

This is a one piece metal model, looks a lot like Princess Peach from Super Mario.  I put a Secret Weapon Miniatures Base on her.

Starting with the painting:

Primed with Reaper Master Series brush-on white.  Skin tone is a build-up layer with the Fair Skin Triad.  I did a build-up from Fair Shadow to Fair Skin to Fair Highlight.  I wanted a "rosy" look to her cheeks so I thinned up RMS Pale Violet Red, and stumbled through an application/removal process with a wet-brush.  I think I might have accidentally did some real wet-blending out of that.  Also used the RMS Pale Violet Red (pure) to paint a tongue in her mouth, but your can't see that because of the shadow cast from my lamp.

The eyes were based in RMS pure white.  Painted in the entire Iris with RMS Marine Teal.  Then used P3 Thamar Black to outline the iris, put a pupil in, then used the Pure White again to add the reflection dot.  I'm quite happy with the outcome on the eyes, but thinking thinner paint on the skin would've smoothed it up a bit more.  To give a little more pop to the eyes, I thinned Vallejo Game Ink Black with Glaze medium that gave the transition line between skin and that I could improve upon.

Now with some base-coating finished, with a little depth/highlighting on her dress.  Her hair is base coated with RMS Tanned leather, its the "shade" part of the Amber Gold and Golden Blonde triad.  The dress, I used old Reaper Pro Paints satins/metallics.  (That accounts for most of the gloss look of her dress.)  Base coated in RPP Coral and then shaded with RPP Rose Petal.

A little more work with the dress.  I ended up putting a wash of Citadel Baal Red on there to deepen the shadows and was quite pleased.  The shadows are a bit exaggerated with the natural shadows as a result of my poor lighting.  I think I'll put some silver on the filigree of her dress to make that design pop a little more.  Her hair, since I felt the Baal Red wash result was favorable, ended up getting a wash only in the recesses of Citadel Gryphonne Sepia.  Turned out nice, I think, and I pulled the highlights up with the RMS Golden Blonde.  I'm seeing where I'm improving with my skills.  I'm not at the level I desire to be, but I'm moving along.

I essentially lost motivation on her and slowed down a bit on completing new things.  I painted the ball thingies in her hair with RMS sparkling amethyst to keep going with the metallic theme, but have no idea how to give it any depth.  So I washed them with Leviathan Purple and called them done.  Her golden crown was painted with Citadel Shining Gold and washed with Citadel Devlan Mud.  The base was painted up with the two RMS gray samples I received from Reaper with some orders, washed with Secret Weapon Miniature's Cool Gray, then washed again with Citadel Badab Black.  I did one flagstone with P3's Hammerfall Khaki, washed with Devlan Mud.  I still need to work on thinning my paints more to get a smoother application onto the model, but overall I can tell my skill is improving…it's becoming easier to put what's in my head down on the model.  More and more practice and then pushing myself with technique will get me set.  Final pictures and moving onto the next model:

Wednesday, February 12, 2014

Knight Models: Batman-Arkham City 28mm Batman WIP and complete.

This one is for me.  I'm more of the Batman fan than my co-worker and friend.  So, if he has Superman on his desk, I'm going to have Batman. 

First up packaging:

All the pieces pre-assembly and post assembly.  In a small step to improve my basing, I picked up Wyrd Miniatures 30 mm Sewer Base inserts, which I thought were pretty cool.

 I primed with RMS brush-on Black Primer.  (This is one of those times where I wish I would've painted first, assembled later…there's a lot of tiny crevices that'll be tough to paint without touching somewhere else.)

Beginnings of base coating:

The face is RMS Rosy Shadow, washed with Vallejo Game Color Ink:  Sepia Shade.  Touched up with the Rosy Shadow, then bit of highlighting with RMS Rosy Flesh.  The gray is a nameless color sample of RMS paints I received.  A pic of the bottle is in my Man of Steel WIP.  The base coat of the cloak is RMS Midnight Blue.

A couple more coats of RMS Midnight Blue alternating with washes of Secret Weapon's Blue Black.  I also washed the gray down with Blue-Black.  I wanted that gray a bit darker, but not with a pure black wash.  Boots, gloves, chest emblem, and the batarang all painted with RMS Adamantium Black with a wash of P3's armor wash.  Now, I know that I could touch up some points on the armor with a brighter metallic, but at this time I feel that Citadel's Mithril Silver is "too much."  Also, it's the only brighter metallic I have…I can't do NMM (yet), and it's one of those things where at this point I'd mess it up and I'm quite happy with the results right now.  All of that yielded me this:

Note:  I did my first attempt at real green stuffing the gap at his waist, and smoothing it over with some LGS.  Semi-fail.  No gap, but not smooth around the crotchal region.  I'm also working on my motivation at really being comfortable with the filing, and green stuffing during prep phase.  I just don't like doing it, so I haven't pushed myself to do it well.

Starting on the base, I painted the metal RMS rust Brown, then stippled Reaper Pro Paint Pewter.  Gave it a wash of Citadel Gryphonne Sepia, Leviathan Purple, Thraka Green, then VGC Game Ink Black.

See these?

Included in this selection of Secret Weapon Miniatures Products includes Rust Orange, Rust Red, Rust Brown, and Pigment Fixer.  Yeah, didn't have the guts to use them after I touched some up parts of the base with paint.  So I left the rust look as paint without SWM's awesome pigments…maybe next time.

I finished up the base with some "toxic goo."  This is a simple VGC Scorpion Green, washed with Citadel Thraka Green, highlighted up with Scorpion Green, and a light dry brush of VGC Livery Green.  All that's left is to put a couple of coats of Gloss Varnish on the goo to keep it looking wet and slimy, and a brush on of RMS Sealer/Varnish.

Finished product, thanks for looking.